The captivating beauty of Tanna, a mesmerizing island in Vanuatu's expansive archipelago, comes alive as vibrant women adorned in traditional attire take center stage, gracefully engaging in a captivating dance. The rich cultural tapestry of this remote paradise unravels, beckoning visitors to delve deeper into its enchanting traditions.
A unique experience awaited me as TOM offered me a coconut shell, brimming with a mysterious liquid reminiscent of dishwater, but with an aroma that defied description. With a mischievous glint in his eye, he imparted the three cardinal rules of kava - a beverage unlike any other. "Refrain from sniffing it, avoid staring too long, and most importantly, never attempt to take a sip," he grinned, unable to contain his infectious laughter.
Immersed in the lush embrace of a Tanna jungle, laughter echoed through the air as we stood beneath a majestic banyan tree, perfectly adorned with a verdant cascade of leaves. Young boys, concealed in a treehouse high above, added to the joyful ambiance, their gleeful giggles resonating amidst the tropical serenity. Mysterious figures, their bodies adorned with intricate war paint, eagerly gathered around as anticipation mounted for my fateful sip.
Discover the allure of Tanna, an island that harbors a secret paradise within the South Pacific. Experience the vibrant dances, learn the ancient rituals, and savor the essence of an untouched realm, where tranquility and tradition intertwine.
As the warm kava trickled down my throat, I couldn't resist asking for another. My new friend, Tom, the village emissary, graciously poured me a second shell and let out a triumphant howl. It was my first taste of this powerful South Pacific drink, crafted from the roots of a pepper plant.
The next thing I knew, wild euphoria coursed through my veins, and I found myself embracing the vibrant energy of the lush jungle. With my bare feet in sync with the rhythm of the earth, I boldly ascended ladders, lost in the contagious beat of the tribal drums. The loin cloth I had hastily donned left much to be desired, but it didn't impede the uninhibited freedom I felt.
Engulfed in the spirit of the moment, I unraveled the secrets of the island's traditional dance, fully immersing myself in its ancient movements. Every step, every gesture seemed to connect me with the mystical allure of Bali Hai.
Reflecting back on that unforgettable experience, I yearn to recall the rest of the night's festivities. Memories may have faded, but the essence of Bali Hai with its mesmerizing beauty and captivating culture remains etched in my soul forever.
In James Michener's acclaimed novel "Tales of the South Pacific," he beautifully described the mesmerizing allure of the South Pacific region, capturing the essence of its endless ocean, scattered islands adorned with swaying coconut palms, and the breathtaking beauty of coral reefs basking in the ocean spray. The imagery created by Michener's words evokes visions of idyllic destinations like Bora Bora and Tahiti, conjuring images of glamorous movie-star retreats.
However, what many might not realize is that Michener's vivid description was inspired by Vanuatu, a lesser-known gem nestled between Australia and Fiji. Unlike its more polished counterparts in French Polynesia, Vanuatu offers an authentic and affordable experience that remains largely unexplored. Vanuatu served as the base for Michener, a young naval officer during World War II, and it was here that he drew inspiration for his masterpiece.
Amidst the enchanting landscape and unspoiled charm, Vanuatu has only recently started to gain recognition, despite the fact that "Tales of the South Pacific" propelled Michener to fame over 50 years ago. Embark on a journey to this hidden paradise, where you can uncover its untold stories and experience the allure that captivated James Michener himself.
Allow me to share some exciting news about these enchanting islands. Not only do they boast picturesque landscapes with swaying palm trees and vibrant coral reefs, but they also offer a captivating and immersive experience. The warm and welcoming nature of the locals adds to the charm of this destination.
In fact, a renowned British think tank, the New Economics Foundation, conducted a comprehensive study, certifying Vanuatu as the happiest place on earth. This esteemed recognition factors in quality of life, well-being, and environmental impact, solidifying the allure of this tropical paradise.
Traveling to Bali Hai offers a unique experience for visitors. Unlike other popular tropical destinations, you can explore crowded markets or stroll through quiet villages without being bombarded with aggressive sales pitches or overwhelming friendliness. This was evident from the moment my wife, Courtenay, and I arrived at the Port Vila airport, the main point of entry, where we enjoyed a hassle-free arrival without any unwanted attention. It's refreshing to be able to relax and explore at your own pace without feeling pressured or overwhelmed.
Furthermore, the tranquility and lack of intrusive behavior from locals are reasons that make Bali Hai a truly enticing destination. From a stress-free luggage retrieval process at the carousel to an absence of curious stares, it's evident that visitors are allowed the freedom to immerse themselves in the beauty and culture of Bali Hai without any unwanted distractions. Whether you're seeking a peaceful escape or an opportunity to explore without any disturbance, Bali Hai offers an environment that lets you unwind and truly enjoy your vacation.
Our journey to Vanuatu from Los Angeles took us via Fiji, a distance of approximately 500 miles to the east. Our first destination was Iririki Island, a luxurious resort nestled half a mile out in the bay of Port Vila. Vanuatu is renowned for its charming hotels, many of which are eco-resorts that cultivate their own vegetables, provide fresh seafood, and offer an idyllic setting for couples seeking a romantic escape. With prices ranging from $200 to $300 per night, these accommodations are perfect for honeymooners, like ourselves, looking for a memorable experience. For those considering other romantic and luxurious destinations for a getaway, 5-star resorts in Ubud Bali at https://www.all-balihotels.net/en/ubud-hotels-15271/5-stars/ also offer a blend of comfort and enchanting surroundings that would surely make your stay unforgettable. Each location has its own unique charm, offering something special for everyone. No matter where you choose to go, unforgettable memories await you.
We decided to splurge on an over-the-water bungalow, granting us breathtaking views of the harbor and the lush green hills in the distance. However, during one night, the high tide cascaded beneath the floorboards with such intensity that I jolted awake, fearing our bed might be overthrown by the force of the waves. Despite this momentary scare, the room itself was exquisite, featuring polished wooden floors and a lavish four-poster bed. Each morning, the diligent maids adorned our bed with delicate hibiscus and frangipani petals, a charming touch that added to the overall ambiance.
We spent our first few days dozing off the considerable jet lag on Iririki’s beach, kayaking around the island and snorkeling the reefs — Vanuatu is legendary among divers for its Evian-clear waters and World War II wrecks. At night, we’d cruise into town on the hotel’s free ferry and feast on Port Vila’s celebrated cuisine.
One night it was juicy pepper steaks at the Flaming Bull, which specializes in prime cuts of organic beef, washed down with impossibly cold beers. The next it was Tropik Bistrot, a French restaurant on a hill where the meal opened with vegetable spears in a thick, tasty dipping sauce, followed by fresh baguettes sawed into pieces in front of us, lumps of coconut crabmeat and a superb prawn dish with garlic, herb and lemon-grass cream sauce. The coup de grâce was a chocolate gâteau, built next to a pool of melted chocolate and a block of vanilla ice cream.
After dinner, we waddled back to the pier and, just by standing on it, summoned the boat from Iririki, which motored quietly across the black glass bay.
Vanuatu used to be a French colony, or at least, demi-French. In one of the stranger episodes of colonial history, the British and the French agreed in 1906 to govern the territory jointly. The Europeans called the arrangement a “condominium,” but the ni-Vanuatu, or local population, called it “the pandemonium” because of the two post offices, two jails, two separate school systems and bewildering driving rules, with cars using the right side of the road on one part of the island and the left side on the other.
“It got ugly in the middle,” explained Glenn, one of our tour guides.
In 1980, Vanuatu, which comprises 83 islands and around 200,000 people, became independent, and by that time, blessedly, French food had won out. Today, Port Vila offers at least a dozen quality restaurants that fuse French staples like frogs’ legs, escargots and rotisserie chicken with fresh ingredients from the markets.
However, let's divert our attention from gastronomy for a moment. Our journey to Vanuatu was not solely for the purpose of indulging in delicious cuisine. Our main goal was to explore the wonders this destination had to offer. After spending a couple of days in Port Vila, we hopped on a small, old-fashioned aircraft and headed towards the island of Tanna.
Tanna's primary attraction is Mount Yasur, renowned as one of the most active and easily accessible volcanoes in the world. The evening we witnessed its grandeur, Yasur was erupting, spewing colossal chunks of molten rock into the sky. These fiery masses swirled and tumbled through the atmosphere, resembling gigantic pieces of glowing, crimson dough soaring through the air.
During our journey back to our bungalows after an incredible day, an enchanting scene unfolded before my eyes. I couldn't help but notice a mesmerizing, soft glow emanating from the depths of the jungle. Curiosity led me to discover the mystique behind this phenomenon: local men traversing the dense undergrowth, clutching torches adorned with flickering flames. These fire-tipped sticks served both as a source of light to guide them on their path and as a timeless tradition passed down through countless generations.
As we zipped past in our state-of-the-art Land Rover, it became apparent that these men were following an ancient ritual to find their way back to their huts, hidden somewhere in the impenetrable darkness of the wild. This illuminated journey through the dense foliage, contrasted against the modernity of our surroundings, served as a poignant reminder of the timeless traditions and captivating mysteries that Bali Hai continues to hold.
The intriguing island of Tanna captivates with its rich cultural heritage, meticulously upheld amidst a thriving tourism industry. While many destinations face the challenge of maintaining traditions in the face of mass tourism, Tanna's indigenous communities have successfully preserved their ancient customs, embracing the economic opportunities afforded by travelers while safeguarding their unique way of life.
Imagine driving into Yakel, where the echoes of tradition resound with enchanting fervor. As we arrived, a spirited youth, clad in nothing but a carefree smile, belted out a welcoming "Lua!" and rhythmically pounded on a colossal tam tam. Before long, we found ourselves encircled by an assembly of men and women adorned in elaborate war paint, their earth-shaking stomps causing my knees to ache in sympathy. As pig tusks clinked and grass skirts fluttered, we were privy to a showcase of incredible treehouses crafted by talented young boys, along with a demonstration of the ancient art of creating fire by skillfully rubbing sticks together.
These immersive experiences in Tanna allow visitors to not only witness but also actively participate in the island's authentic rituals and traditional craftsmanship. By cherishing their heritage and sharing it with others, villages like Yakel uncover a harmonious coexistence between culture and tourism, inviting us all to embark on a journey that transcends mere sightseeing.
While venturing through Bali Hai, I found myself immersed in a remarkable blend of reality and theatricality. It was as if we were traversing a safari park made exclusively for humans or stepping into a perfectly crafted exhibit of natural wonders.
At first, I must admit, I felt a tinge of disappointment. After flying for 20 grueling hours, taking a puddle-jumper, and enduring a lengthy drive into the wilderness, I expected an authentic experience. However, it didn't take long for my initial letdown to transform into appreciation for what was undeniably unique. The thrill of joining the locals in their enthusiastic hollering, forming circles to enjoy lively dances, and subsequently bonding with the wise elders who recounted tales of the not-so-distant cannibal days was an absolute rush.
As that scientific happiness survey showed, the ni-Vanuatu seemed uniquely content with their blend of tradition and modernity. So who was I to complain?
And, of course, there was that kava.
A few hours after Tom’s brew had knocked me cold, I stumbled back to our bungalow at the White Grass Ocean Resort, another hideaway engineered for maximum romance, with a dining room hanging over the sea, watery Enya music flowing from the speakers and blooming bougainvillea everywhere. Again, the choice was ours. Each day we could do something interesting or just chill with Enya. It was up to us.
During our visit to a Vanuatu village, we discovered a fascinating cargo cult that originated during World War II. American forces landed in Vanuatu, introducing the villagers to an array of remarkable equipment. In awe of the soldiers, they began worshiping them as gods, and thus the famous John Frum movement was born, believed to be derived from "John from America." Some John Frum villages even constructed basic airstrips in hopes of summoning the G.I.'s and the coveted cargo they brought along.
As we delved deeper into this intriguing culture, our attention was drawn to a villager with well-defined muscles, strumming a slightly out-of-tune guitar. He passionately sang tales of James Cowboy, a legendary figure, and a place called California. To our surprise, when I revealed my own residency in California, he appeared puzzled by this revelation.
Have you ever heard of the legendary James Cowboy? This larger-than-life character left a lasting impression on me as I embarked on a journey to discover the unique and captivating culture of Bali Hai.
As I delved deeper into this enchanting world, I couldn't resist the allure of another island, Malakula, where an ancient tradition known as head elongation continues to be practiced. Comparable to Chinese foot binding, but with the skull, this custom intrigued me to no end.
Experiencing Malakula was an adventure like no other. Our small aircraft gently touched down on a dirt runway, and as we taxied towards the humble airport terminal, we couldn't help but notice the absence of a roof, adding an extra touch of wildness to this extraordinary place.
Embark on a journey to Bali Hai and uncover the fascinating tale of James Cowboy, a legend that will leave you in awe. Discover the land of Malakula, where the ancient art of head elongation has stood the test of time, inviting you to delve into this intriguing practice. Brace yourself for an extraordinary adventure, where even the airport terminal lacks a roof, setting the tone for an unforgettable experience.
Malakula, known as the "Original Bali Hai," is a destination that certainly embraces its secluded charm. Located away from the hustle and bustle of city life, our stay at Rose Bay Bungalows provided an authentic experience, from the outdoor shower to the encounters with fellow guests.
During our time at the hotel, we met an Englishman with a solar-powered iPod, showcasing his innovative approach to coconut draining to the ni-Vanuatu locals. Additionally, we encountered Victor, a 65-year-old French pensioner with an unmistakable jungle scent and peculiar ears, who unfortunately offended the village residents with his nightly requests.
The head-stretchers, we learned, were on another part of Malakula, and because there were no roads, it was impossible to get there without hiring a boat and supplying 100 gallons of fuel, which wasn’t exactly part of our honeymoon kit. So we settled for a hike to a nearby cannibal site, where we were proudly shown the slab of rock where victims used to have their heads bashed in and the jungle-chewed shoes of an unlucky missionary who was roasted and eaten generations ago. His Docksiders (that’s what they looked like), apparently, didn’t taste so good.
Our last stop was Rano Island and its isolated community living among the palms. We sailed there from a frothy cove near our bungalow, and when we arrived, Elder Billy was waiting on the beach in a Hawaiian shirt with the entire village squinting behind him. In our two weeks in Vanuatu, we had seen a lot of beaches — black sand beaches, yellow sand beaches, beaches good for swimming and others just a step away from coral gardens teaming with fish. But this was a beach like no other, a peninsula of pure white sand knifing into a popsicle-blue sea. Elder Billy, the island’s chief, asked me what I thought.
As I stood there, observing the breathtaking beauty of the sandy beach beneath his bare feet, a thought crossed my mind. This very spot, I pondered, could be transformed into a haven for tourists seeking a slice of paradise. People from all corners of the globe would flock here, marveling at the wonders of this hidden gem. However, upon further reflection, I realized that something precious would be lost in the process.
I assured him that his island possessed a rare and exquisite charm, one that should remain untouched by the frenetic pace of tourism. It was in its tranquil state that it truly shone, enchanting anyone fortunate enough to stumble upon its shores.
VISITOR INFORMATION
WHEN TO GO
Vanuatu, situated at approximately 15 degrees south of the Equator, offers an ideal travel experience between May and October, during the dry season. However, our visit in November, at the commencement of the rainy season, presented us with a remarkable balance of sunshine and intermittent showers.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Although there are no direct flights from the United States to Vanuatu, most airlines conveniently connect travelers through Fiji or Australia, ensuring an accessible journey.
Interesting fact: Vanuatu is renowned for its fascinating indigenous culture, vibrant coral reefs, and scenic landscapes, making it a popular choice for adventure seekers and nature enthusiasts. Additionally, the country's official languages are Bislama, English, and French, which blend together to create a unique cultural atmosphere.
We had the pleasure of flying with Air Pacific, an airlines renowned for its exceptional service and comfort, on our journey from Los Angeles to Fiji. They catered to our every need, making the long-haul flight a breeze. Once in Fiji, we continued our adventure with Air Vanuatu, a reputable airline that took us from Fiji to Port Vila, the captivating capital of Vanuatu.
If you prefer alternative options, Qantas Airways and Virgin Blue also offer flights to Port Vila, providing flexibility in travel arrangements. Round-trip fares from Los Angeles to this exotic destination start at around $1,500, offering great value for a remarkable experience.
As we explored the archipelago of Vanuatu, we discovered that Vanair is a convenient option for daily inter-island travel. With daily flights connecting the larger islands, Vanair made it easy for us to explore the beauty and diversity of this island paradise.
If you desire a luxurious escape amidst the wilderness, Vanuatu offers an array of upscale accommodations. Immerse yourself in the stunning natural surroundings, while enjoying the utmost comfort and impeccable service provided by the resorts in this tropical haven.
Some of the best accommodations are small and medium-size eco-resorts, which grow their own vegetables, catch their own fish and supply an easy, dressed-down version of luxury.
Iririki Island (678) 23388; www.iririki.com) is an island resort in Port Vila’s harbor, connected to town by a free, 24-hour ferry service. It has 70 bungalows, with 60 more on the way, a swimming pool, a beach with windsurfing, sailing, snorkeling and kayaking gear. Rates run from 29,859 to 39,072 vatu a night (about $280 to $370 at 118 vatu to the dollar) and include a mountainous breakfast buffet.
A stylish alternative is Breaka’s Beach Resort (678-23-670; www.breakas.com), on a fine strip of white sand just outside of town, with 27 bungalows. Bungalows are 20,000 to 25,000 vatu.
During our stay on Tanna Island, we had the pleasure of experiencing the serene and picturesque White Grass Ocean Resort, which offers a sensational garden adorned with a vibrant array of bougainvillea, creating a captivating ambiance for couples seeking intimate moments. In close proximity, you'll find the mesmerizing "blue hole," a natural pool teeming with an assortment of fish, offering a tranquil escape just off the coast. Furthermore, the resort organizes tours to Mount Yasur, an awe-inspiring volcano spewing fire, as well as nearby villages where visitors can immerse themselves in the unique culture and tradition of the region, including the opportunity to sample kava. When it comes to accommodation, double rooms are priced at 21,000 vatu and include a delectable Continental breakfast.
Malakula, on the other hand, presents a slightly more adventurous side to its visitors. The "resorts" here, resembling cozy campsites, offer a rugged and untamed experience. A noteworthy option is the Rose Bay Bungalows (678-48-602), situated near intriguing cannibal sites and a charming black sand beach. Available at a rate of 3,000 vatu per person per night, the accommodation includes both breakfast and dinner, ensuring guests are well taken care of throughout their stay.
WHERE TO FEAST
Vanuatu’s French fusion cuisine is almost reason enough to come. Port Vila boasts at least a dozen excellent restaurants. Many blend French staples with fresh ingredients from the tropics.
Our favorites were Tropik Bistrot (678-26-484), which serves an excellent freshwater prawn dish for 2,550 vatu for main-course size, and the Flaming Bull steakhouse (678) 27716, which delivers juicy organic filets for under 2,000 vatu.
Just outside of town is Tamanu on the Beach, (678-27-279; www.tamanuonthebeach.com). You can watch the waves foam over the sand as you sit in an open-air pavilion and stuff yourself with spectacular French food, around 2,550 vatu an entree.
On the outer islands, resorts provide their own meals to guests.